Can-am trailing arm bearing replacement

I noticed both trailing arms are loose. With 600-700 miles on it, would the bearings need to be replaced or just tightened up a bit? I've got the arm off, but I don't want to press out the bearing and press in a new one only to find out there was nothing wrong with it. They don't see rough, just loose and if they are tapered if may need to be tightened.

Probably just the bushings. I wouldn't bother replacing them unless you get a set of Garage Products bushings. The stock urethane simply don't last.

the bearings are not tapered... if you take the arm off you will be able to tell is bearing is gone... but like Steve said there... it could just be the bushings... stock are crap... get some from a place called Garage Products.... John over there is excellent and makes the best bushings on the market bar none... his bushings usually never wear out.... that how good they are.... asuming this is on a G2 chassis...

This is a G1. 2009 Renegade. I was like "What the heck are you talking about 'bushing'"? I cleaned up the threads and slipped everything back together and just barely hand-tightened the large nut and it was very tight. I think it will just tighten it up and if it loosens again the I will replace the bearings. They did not turn rough or anything. Actually they seemed to turn a little slow like new bearings do as opposed to just spinning.

Chad, I can't really recall many instances of those bearing being gone .

I think getting them tight and rechecking them after a bit is the way to go.

If the bearing is shot you should know right away. IMO

once you get the torsion bar cleaned and checked the bearings ... i would just replace them once your in there but if they are good then the nuts just came lose....there is a sequence to tighted the outside nuts....

your tighten the right outside nut to 45 fl lbs ... then left to 89 ft lbs....

the red locktite never holds those nuts tight... they come lose... to remedy this you take the thick washer out behind the outside nut and replace it with nord lock washers.... there are other brands now that do the same as nordlock... do the red locktile if you want but once tightened with the nord locks it will never come lose again..... its suppose to be a 18 mm washer but if you cant get the 18 mm nordlock then get 3/4 inch... they are just a tad bigger and work... thats wht i have in mine....

and yes... in G1 there are no bushinings... i assumed it was a G2 in my comment above..

those bearings do go bad... they go bad when the outer nuts come lose and everything shakes around more then it should in there.....when everything is tight they last quite long but do go bad just like the wheel bearings do...and i would stick with OEM... any aftermarket bearings like all balls or moose just dont last as long as the OEM......

This is a G1. 2009 Renegade. I was like "What the heck are you talking about 'bushing'"? I cleaned up the threads and slipped everything back together and just barely hand-tightened the large nut and it was very tight. I think it will just tighten it up and if it loosens again the I will replace the bearings. They did not turn rough or anything. Actually they seemed to turn a little slow like new bearings do as opposed to just spinning.

Those large nuts that hold the trailing arm will require blue locktite and the special socket then torqued to 140 ft lbs. A lot more than hand tightened. The torsion bar is tightened as a for mentioned.

I've already ordered and received the M18 Nordlocks. I plan to use them this time. I had double nut them but I think the loose trailing arm bearings might have caused them to work loose also.

Since I have the tools and the knowledge to get to the bearing, I'm going to run with the original for now. I haven't been able to convince myself that they are both bad. They seem to turn nice and smooth. And just hand tightening made the arms rock solid, much less 140 pounds of torque on the nut. I find it crazy that the bearing inner races are pressed that hard by the nut! I'll lock them down with 140lbs and it should be good and solid again.

On a side note, the OEM loctite had dripped down between the bearing and the threaded frame tube. The arm wound NOT come off. Finally I found the loctite and had to use a small screwdriver to chisel it out. Slipped right off then.

Kwik, I noticed them loose after three days of riding in Colorado. Before that they were nice and tight as far as I knew because I had just retightened the torsion bar before the trip. I could see how banging on them for awhile while loose could destroy them. I'm glad I found it quick.

Forget loctite and just double-nut them. Yes, there is (just) enough threads for two nuts on both sides.

140 ft/lbs of torque on the first nut then 100 ft/lbs on the lock nut.

even double nutted .. they still come loose no matter how much torque you put on them...

if you got FB then watch this video... shows you even double nutted comes lose.... if you dont have FB... too bad for you... haha...

We too have had them come loose. My buddy even had the races come off when he was checking his. He repacked them with grease and the machine is still going strong!

Just to let you know that special socket you need for tightening cost $60 but you can buy the exact same socket at autozone for $15

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Just to let you know that special socket you need for tightening cost $60 but you can buy the exact same socket at autozone for $15
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got a part# for that?

Soon as I get home I'll get # off it

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Part #W1273

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Matty thanks for the heads up on the socket. That's quite a savings.

The tale tale sign of loose trailing arm nuts is a cracking sound. If you are standing on the atv hold the bars and shift your weight from one leg to the other causing the atv to rock. If you hear cracking and popping then your trailing arm nuts are loose. If left loose for long enough the trailing arm key will eventually shear. I used the Nord lock 18mm washers and have not had any trouble since.

The tale tale sign of loose trailing arm nuts is a cracking sound. If you are standing on the atv hold the bars and shift your weight from one leg to the other causing the atv to rock. If you hear cracking and popping then your trailing arm nuts are loose. If left loose for long enough the trailing arm key will eventually shear. I used the Nord lock 18mm washers and have not had any trouble since.

Are we talking about a Gen1 bike here, or Gen2?

What is the trailing arm key that you are referring to?

Are we talking about a Gen1 bike here, or Gen2?

What is the trailing arm key that you are referring to?

The OP has a G1 Renegade. My only experience is with G1.

BRP refers to this as torsion bar levers and the part that breaks of is called "tabs" I heard someone else refer to this parts as a key so foolishly I did the same.

My 2008 model outlander cracked and creaked like crazy. and the issue was loose torsion bar nuts. The 2011 started cracking the same way so I got the Nord Locks and it has been good for 3 years. Far as I am concerned that 2008 model 800 was a complete turd. My 2011 800xxc has been fantastic.