2002 honda accord driver side window problem

4 door 2002 honda accord

I was raising my driver side window and all of a sudden it sounded like it fell off track and the window motor sounded like it was dying out, but I luckily got it up right when it died. I waited, tried it again it barely down up before dying again, and it sporadically moved for a few more seconds before pretty much being disabled.

My passenger side window kind of did the same thing last week but it went back to normal and has been normal ever since.

Now none of my windows work when using the switches in any of the doors, which is surprising since I have not seen the same problem in the other windows.

I checked the power window fuse under the hood and it looked fine, what could this be??

I drove it, and now the power window motors work all of a sudden, except my drivers side window is not moving the window up and down properly. When the motor moves down the window will go down, but it wont catch the window on the way up and I can only manually pull it up. How do I put the window back on track?

I took off door panel and condensation cover and saw the pulley with a spring hanging, so I called a shop and they confirmed it is the window regulator assembly. Thanks for the help Accord forum!

Hey all,
I have a 2003 accord coupe. My driver side window would NOT click when I press up or down, and I just got a new master switch from Honda and still not clicking. I hard-wired the motor and the window came up and down, so I have no idea what it is. I checked the fuse box and fuses are ok. Is there a relay or something for just thne dirver side door?

Thanks in advance!

I have the same problem on my sedan. Drivers window quit working, master swith toggles were loose for both front windows but passenger side still worked. Replaced master switch (which needed to be replaced anyway) and drivers window still does not work. I have been searching the site for troubleshooting (motor, regulator, wiring, relays, etc.) and wiring diagram info but have not found anything yet. I just don't want to keep replacing expensive parts only to find out that was not he problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have the same problem on my sedan. Drivers window quit working, master swith toggles were loose for both front windows but passenger side still worked. Replaced master switch (which needed to be replaced anyway) and drivers window still does not work. I have been searching the site for troubleshooting (motor, regulator, wiring, relays, etc.) and wiring diagram info but have not found anything yet. I just don't want to keep replacing expensive parts only to find out that was not he problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So you're saying that all windows work including lock/unlock functions except the driver's window, am i correct? if only the driver's window motor is not working with a brandnew master switch it's probably the window regulator is failed. It's pretty easy to replace. :thmsup:

yes, power locks work, passenger side window works perfectly. the only problem is the driver's window. It would not even "click" when the lower/raise button is pressed. it works very rarely for a couple minutes then it stops working for days.

So you're saying that all windows work including lock/unlock functions except the driver's window, am i correct? if only the driver's window motor is not working with a brandnew master switch it's probably the window regulator is failed. It's pretty easy to replace. :thmsup:

Correct, everything works except the drivers window. The master switch was expensive and I don't want to keep throwing parts at it unitl I can determine what is actually bad. Does anyone have troubleshooting information.

yes, power locks work, passenger side window works perfectly. the only problem is the driver's window. It would not even "click" when the lower/raise button is pressed. it works very rarely for a couple minutes then it stops working for days.

I am thinking there is a wiring problem in that door somewhere. Either somewhere in between the switch and window motor, or a ground. Obviously, power is getting to the switch if all other windows/locks are working. Since you say it works rarely, there most likely is some kind of loose or damaged connection somewhere.

Yes, sporadic operation is a faulty connection. Go through the wiring in that door with a fine-tooth comb. I'll post up the wiring schematic a little later for you.

Correct, everything works except the drivers window. The master switch was expensive and I don't want to keep throwing parts at it unitl I can determine what is actually bad. Does anyone have troubleshooting information.

I found out what the problem was. The positive cable for the drivers side was not feeding any power to the switch. So since I didn't feel like taking out the while wiring, I just took the posiive from the power mirror switch and split it in two to feed the window switch too. Now it works

It's possible that the wiring for the mirror was not designed to handle the current that the window motor takes, so you might blow a fuse like that. Probably not, but it's a possibility, so if it all of a sudden stops working at both the window and the mirror, that's probably why.

I found out what the problem was. The positive cable for the drivers side was not feeding any power to the switch. So since I didn't feel like taking out the while wiring, I just took the posiive from the power mirror switch and split it in two to feed the window switch too. Now it works

Thanks for the info. I plan on troubleshooting soon. I just bought the Haynes repair manual. It is basic but should be enough information for now.

I took my car to the dealer for one of the windows not working. They told me that each window has its own fuse. I believe, but not sure, that fuses are somewhere in the door. It definitely wasn't one of the fuses in the 2 main fuse locations.

Drivers window fixed. I tore everything apart, did electrical checks on all the wiring, fuses and relays and found nothing. I read in the Haynes manual that each regulator motor has a internal circuit breaker. So just for laughs, I taped on the motor with the screwdriver handle and now the drivers window works just fine. What a relief to not have to spend any money on that fix.

No joy on the passenger window. I tore the door apart and discovered the regulator had already been replaced with one from the junkyard. Time to look for a new one.

Looking for imputs on factory vs. aftermarket. Factory part is $164 from Majestic and I found a new aftermarket unit manufactured by Platimun on EBAY for $70.

Drivers window fixed. I tore everything apart, did electrical checks on all the wiring, fuses and relays and found nothing. I read in the Haynes manual that each regulator motor has a internal circuit breaker. So just for laughs, I taped on the motor with the screwdriver handle and now the drivers window works just fine. What a relief to not have to spend any money on that fix.

No joy on the passenger window. I tore the door apart and discovered the regulator had already been replaced with one from the junkyard. Time to look for a new one.

Looking for imputs on factory vs. aftermarket. Factory part is $164 from Majestic and I found a new aftermarket unit manufactured by Platimun on EBAY for $70.

like i said it was pretty much caused by the regulator. i did not know that you can tap on the motor to make it work :thmsup:.
In the original thread, you said your passenger's window worked fine. why are looking for a replacement now? is it because of the part from junk yard? If it's still working, wait until it dies and replace it. save some $ buddy. I replace mine dead regulator from an aftermarket company called 1Aauto.com. It was $75 shipped,there was one on ebay for $55 shipped. I was short at that time so i went ahead with aftermarket otherwise i would go with OEM, maybe because of quality? i dont know, but 1Aauto.com provides 2year warranty for my regulator compared to 1year to most OEM parts.:thumbsdow
One more thing, the aftermarket window regulator that i bought runs faster than the oem one. I have no idea:dunno:

like i said it was pretty much caused by the regulator. i did not know that you can tap on the motor to make it work :thmsup:.
In the original thread, you said your passenger's window worked fine. why are looking for a replacement now? is it because of the part from junk yard? If it's still working, wait until it dies and replace it. :

When I originally posted, it was working. It quit all together when I put in the new master switch.

I took my car to the dealer for one of the windows not working. They told me that each window has its own fuse. I believe, but not sure, that fuses are somewhere in the door. It definitely wasn't one of the fuses in the 2 main fuse locations.

The window fuses are in the driver's footwell fuse panel. I checked because I wanted to remove them when I got my tints done so I wouldn't accidentally roll the windows down.

what so a drivers side window problem gets blasted with answers and a passenger side problem gets crazily overlooked? lol

what so a drivers side window problem gets blasted with answers and a passenger side problem gets crazily overlooked? lol

It happens, I have a new problem with my care every day. It is getting hard to keep track of what went wrong when. I should paint it yellow as it is looking more like a lemon every day I own it.

It happens, I have a new problem with my care every day. It is getting hard to keep track of what went wrong when. I should paint it yellow as it is looking more like a lemon every day I own it.

oh yeah, paint it yyellow

It happens, I have a new problem with my care every day. It is getting hard to keep track of what went wrong when. I should paint it yellow as it is looking more like a lemon every day I own it.

had to LOL to this

Do you have the wiring diagram for 2004 Honda accord Power window driver side... the driver side window does not work. All other windows, power locks , etc work... Fuses ok... I changed out the regulator... Changed out switch with another and found switch was ok... so must be wiring issue.... I can ck the wiring but a schemetic would be helpful.